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In the mirror, I seem to have on huge shimmering pantaloons, visible only to me. Children play in a stone basin imitating mermaids, and in the next room rests a chatting legume in a display case, next to a imposing pile of mattresses. It embodies the world of the beloved author (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s widely adored storytellers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, situated in the island of Fyn in the southern region of Denmark, to discover Andersen’s enduring legacy in his home town 150 years after his passing, and to discover a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Cultural Center: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the town's cultural center celebrating the writer, featuring his original residence. An expert notes that in earlier iterations of the museum there was scant attention on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was examined, but Thumbelina were missing. For guests who visit Odense seeking storytelling magic, it was a little lacking.

The redevelopment of downtown Odense, rerouting a primary street, made it possible to rethink how the renowned native could be honored. A major architecture competition gave Japanese firm the renowned designers the contract, with the innovative curatorial vision at the center of the structure. The distinctive wood-paneled museum with interwoven spiral spaces debuted to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we avoid discussing Andersen, but we communicate similarly to the storyteller: with humour, irony and outlook,” notes the representative. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for explorers and for colossal creatures, it's created to make you feel small,” he explains, an objective realized by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with height, proportion and numerous twisting trails in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned several personal accounts and regularly contradicted himself. The museum embraces this concept fully; frequently the views of his companions or snippets of written messages are presented to politely doubt the his narrative of incidents. “The author is the guide, but he's untrustworthy,” explains the representative. The outcome is a compelling swift exploration of Andersen’s life and art, thinking patterns and favorite narratives. It is stimulating and whimsical, for mature visitors and youngsters, with a bonus lower-level make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Exploring Odense

In the actual city, the compact town of Odense is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and historic timber buildings finished in cheerful shades. The author's presence is everywhere: the traffic lights display the author with his iconic characteristic hat, metal shoe prints give a complimentary pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this dedication peaks with the yearly Andersen celebration, which honors the writer's impact through creativity, performance, theatre and musical performances.

This year, the multi-day celebration had 500 shows, the majority were without charge. While visiting Odense, I meet painted stilt-walkers, fantastical beings and an author double sharing tales. I hear feminist spoken-word pieces and see an amazing nocturnal display including graceful performers descending from the municipal structure and suspended from a construction equipment. Upcoming events this year are presentations, family art workshops and, broadening the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s annual wonder event.

All good magical places need a fortress, and Fyn boasts 123 castles and manor houses throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

Like much of the country, cycles are the best way to travel around in the city and a “cycling highway” winds through the downtown area. From my accommodation, I pedal to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then beyond the city for a circuit around Stige Ø, a compact territory linked by a road to the mainland. Town dwellers relax with food here following their day, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment fishing, paddleboarding or swimming.

In town, I dine at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is inspired by the writer's motifs and tales. The literary work the national ode appears during my meal, and proprietor Nils Palmqvist shares excerpts, rendered in English, as he presents each course. It’s an experience repeated often in my visit, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it seems that sharing tales is continuously on the menu here.

Historic Estate Tours

Every excellent magical places deserve a castle, and the island features over a hundred manors and estates across the island. Traveling briefly from the city, I tour Egeskov Palace, the continent's most intact historic fortress. Although large sections are open to visitors, Egeskov is also the private residence of the noble family and his wife, the princess. I wonder if she might sense a small legume through a mound of {mattresses